1965 Shelby Cobra Factory Five Removable Hardtop For Sale
1965 Shelby Cobra Factory Five Removable Hardtop
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This Factory Five Mark II was finished in 2004 without using a donor Mustang. The engine is a 1974 Ford 351 Windsor V8, the largest small-block Ford V8, stripped, cleaned, magnafluxed, blueprinted with balanced crank, rods, pistons and flywheel assembly, CNC\'d early 351W cylinder heads from Power Heads, MSD ignition, Blue Thunder cast Aluminum Cobra valve covers and air cleaner, new World-class T5 5-speed transmission, Ford Bullit Mustang wheels with Kumho Estasupra Z-rated tires and Cobra wheel caps - KYB rear shocks - Flaming River rack and pinion - Ford M2300K Cobra brake kit - Optima battery in custom fabricated trunk-mount battery box for added convenience. Driveshaft loop and transmission blanket for safety. The J-pipes and sidepipes were ceramic coated by Air Born Coatings. This car has won many awards at judged shows.
On Aug-10-17 at 06:28:16 PDT, seller added the following information:
I will include a spare Carter CRT-P4594 fuel pump and replacement filter element for the Summit Racing SUM-G1501fuel filter, both located in rear below trunk. I will include a CDR with photos of assembly, and an Excel spreadsheet with all part numbers, links to where to purchase and calculations used for assembly.
On Aug-10-17 at 09:12:35 PDT, seller added the following information:
I posted three new photos, two of the engine compartment taken today and one of the right rear fender where the fiberglass seam has \"pictured\" through the paint. It looks like a line running vertically up the center of the photo. It is only visible in bright sunlight.
I was asked by a bidder what was wrong with the car. There is nothing wrong with the car, she is just through the engine break-in period and the rings are now seated and she has been changed to Mobile 1 synthetic oil. It is my baby and selling her is like cutting off my arm, but I built her to drive. I am retired and have the time, but not the energy to put her through her paces as she should be exercised. Building this car was a lifetime dream of mine that I was able to make real, although she is a replica. People ask me, \"Is that Real?\" because it has all the badging and the assembly and fabrication was so obviously well done. I tell them she is a figment of my imagination become manifest. I built her in a one car garage taking four years to complete after spending one year on the engine rebuild alone. There is a lot of love lavished on the assembly. For example, all the engine block oil bearing surfaces were coated with Glyptol, a durable coating the allows oil to flow smoothly throughout the engine. She still lives in that one-car garage and my wife, who must still get up and drive to work every morning, rain or snow, would like to have that garage and I must admit, it is time, she is a good wife who let me build my dream. Good luck everyone, I hope the winner provides a good home for my baby.
On Aug-10-17 at 09:28:23 PDT, seller added the following information:
I was asked about the brakes. I used the M2300-K Cobra brake kit on the car. That is four-wheel disc brakes with 13\" rotors in front and 11.65\" rotors rear. Since there isn\'t room to install power brakes or a brake booster in the chassis I used the Jeep Grand Cherokee master cylinder which provides plenty of hydraulic pressure in combination with the large rotors to stop the lightweight Cobra easily. Equally important, during emergency braking, if you lock it up, the car goes straight and level, meaning the front/rear balance is correct and the brakes modulate nicely.
On Aug-14-17 at 12:27:59 PDT, seller added the following information:
I thought I\'d also mention some other things I added that are not standard on Factory Five Roadsters. I put a locking gas cap under the Le Mans style aluminum gas cap. There is a tubular keyed small lock on the dash that will controls the fuel pump. If it is left off the car will start and get about 100 feet before shutting off. There is a fire extinguisher under the dash, like the racing Shelby\'s that probably needs to be charged. Since there is no dome light in a roadster and I wanted to to read maps at night I installed a Butler\'s map light from England as were often used in the AC Aceca race and rally cars. The transmission tunnel is upholstered with black naugahyde, as is the dash and door panels. Since there is no glove compartment I put side pockets on the doors and a nice sturdy stainless \"OH MY GOD!\" handle for the passenger. In order to not have to reach in and clean bugs off the radiator I installed a punched aluminum \"grill\" over the oval opening and there are foot well cooling air intakes in the brake opening up front controlled by cables above the foot wells. I also installed the VW turn signal with a custom handle that sort of match the bat switches on the dash. The car uses Autometer gauges designed to replace the original Smith\'s gauges used in the original AC/Shelby cars including the reverse Speedometer — zero is on the right and 180 is on the left. The car has the optional heater in the dash and defrosters as well as wipers, not that the wipers work very well in anything but a light rain and I did not install bathtub drains in the floor of the cockpit. The car has the aluminum AC style pedals for clutch and brake and a custom aluminum throttle pedal. I also made a dead pedal on the left with an old-style Ford dimmer switch. All the switches have been labeled with my custom white lettering on black labels. The car has an old-style manual choke under the dash. Pull it out to turn over the engine, give it some throttle and push the choke back quickly after the engine begins running - no guess work about what position the choke is in. There are no computers on this car, except for solid-state MSD multi-spark discharge device housed on the firewall behind the air cleaner. The engine uses a Mallory distributor. The clutch is adjustable under the hood with a Ford Mustang SVE Clutch cable screw adjustment on the clutch cable located beside the brake master cylinder. There is an electric cooling fan on the radiator with an aluminum shroud. There is a cockpit located keyed shutoff for all engine electric connections except the clock. The car has the Raydot style mirror on the driver\'s side and dash mounted center rearview mirror. There is a customer fabricated trunk lid support and there are padded tracks under the hood to hold the removable hood in an up position during shows or while checking the oil. There is a Summit fuel pressure gauge next to the four-barrel carb and the oil filter is located remotely off the engine at the front of the engine bay. Again, good luck to everyone.
On Aug-14-17 at 12:36:22 PDT, seller added the following information:
The car also has the chrome over riders front and rear, the vertical bumpers that replace the non-functional manual lift hooks that are standard on the FFR roadster that are shown in the older photo with the APE top in place.
On Aug-16-17 at 06:52:55 PDT, seller added the following information:
If you win the bidding I will include a CDR with all the calculations used during the build along with all part numbers. The engine used Clevite Pistons and Rods with ARP bolts and studs. Victor Reinz Nitroseal Head Gaskets, Perfect Circle rings, Clevite oil pump, Summit Cam 204° in. 214° ex. .448in .472ex, Comp Cams roller rockers, ARP Main Bolts, Beck Arnley pilot bearing, Edelbrock Timing Chain, Edelbrock (Carter) Performer Carb, Ford Motorsports Coil, FOMOCO Short V-Belt Water Pump, Hardened Steel Push Rods for Street from Power Heads, Compression ratio is 8.88:1 and the car was built with good throttle response for easy driving. I have never had it on a dyno. I built it to be a daily driver, but if you want to increase the horsepower, the simplest, easiest and least expensive thing to do is to replace the Edelbrock Performer intake manifold and carb with the Edelbrock Performer Plus intake and carb for the 351W. The Heads were actually CNC ported for that particular model of intake manifold.
I also have found some more brand new spare parts for the car I will include. Nothing big, but a backup AN-6 billet fuel filter from Summit, a pair of spare hood pins, an extra One-wire Voltage Regulator for the 1960-65 Alternator. I liked having spare odd parts, like the spare fuel pump and filters, when driving out of town. I\'ll also include the Allen wrench for adjusting the front coil-overs and the drive key for the wheel locks.
On Aug-16-17 at 07:27:27 PDT, seller added the following information:
I have received several questions about how the car is titled. Being in Indiana it is relatively easy to title and license a homebuilt car.
The title showsYear 1965, the Make as RSR (roadster), Model as REPL (replica), Body Style as CN (convertible). The Title reads -*REBUILT VEHICLE *ODOMETER IS NOT ACTUAL — I remember fighting with the DMVover that since it was a non-donor build, with brand new speedometer andodometer and freshly rebuilt engine with zero miles, but she just smiled and said if it didn\'t have a VIN from amanufacturer it had to read that on the title.
I don\'t have receipt for the parts, there was no reason to keep them. The engine was from a 1974 van, purchased from a fellow in the boonies with cash, a handshake and no paperwork. I had to write a couple of letters to the BMV to explain why there was no manufacturer\'s serial number involved in the build. Ford didn\'t stamp serial numbers on engine blocks in 1974 and no other part used had a serial number except the rear end, which was newer, but that wasn\'t one she could use.
TL;DR The car is a 1965 Replica Roadster Convertible according to the State of Indiana and I don\'t have receipts for any parts.Being a 1965 Roadster the only emissions control on the vehicle is Partial Crankcase Ventilation (PCV).
On Aug-16-17 at 07:51:44 PDT, seller added the following information:
I\'ll include a few books I used to build the car.
As well as the Factory Five Racing Roadster Mark II Assembly Manual, I\'ll include:Super Tuning and Modifying Carter CarburetorsHow to Rebuild Small-Block Ford EnginesSecrets of Buying and Building Your Specialty Car on a Small BudgetFord Engine Overhaul Manual (covers 351W as well as other V8s)Ford Windsor Small Block PerformanceCustom Auto Electronics and Auto Electrical - Hot Rod HandbooksChilton\'s Mustang 1989-93 Repair Manual
A three-ring binder of information sheets, installation instructions and diagrams of many of the parts used in the build.
I also wanted to mention that the driveshaft bolts were drilled and lockwired for safety.
On Aug-17-17 at 06:49:03 PDT, seller added the following information:
I\'ve had questions about the suspension.
It\'s four link live axle rear with Stangnet Pro3 Lower Control Arms and Mac Adjustable Upper Control Arms, all new suspension bolts from Breeze with the Lisman rear upper control arm Heim bushing. I also had Trac Lock installed in the rearend with a cast aluminum Differential Support Cover. The front lower control arms were brand new from Ford Motorsports and the Mark II has the Coil Over uppers. The rearend uses KYB rear and quad shocks.
